Daniel Oliver 
Inspite of a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 selection is gaining traction, particularly following several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone instances, as very well as open-labored movements on the line.
Continuing the evolution – and advancement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Traveling Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone situation. Much more putting is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most hanging variation of the product to date.
Initial feelings
Since the start of the assortment, most Code 11.59 product have been redesigned in a method that is considerably formulaic, though the outcomes have been interesting. The makeovers typically associated brighter dial colors or new elements, like the latest Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that received an aventurine glass dial.
In comparison, the hottest redesign is a surprise that proves much less is additional. Stark and minimalist yet much from simple, the onyx dial very easily sets the look at apart from its peers in the selection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even eliminating the Arabic numerals that are a signature factor of the Code 11.59.
Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the wise application of colored accents. Though it is primarily in silver and black, it has just the right volume of rose gold aspects in just the appropriate places to give it warmth and a little bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised to spotlight the circumstance band as well as the tourbillon carriage, but in a delicate method.
Though the new tourbillon is outfitted with a mineral stone dial, a rarity at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is not a minimal edition, which is good news. Priced at about US$149,700, the look at fees about 10% additional than the normal design in gold, but the dial product and aesthetics are certainly value the quality.
Piano black
In a initial for the Code 11.59, the new tourbillon does absent with the used hour markers and moment hashmarks. Nevertheless these are nearly a defining characteristic of the design, the minimalist structure helps make feeling considering that it makes it possible for the onyx dial to get centre phase.
And the redesign was just about certainly also a make any difference of practicality – onyx and very similar stones are a challenge to function so drilling holes to accommodate the utilized markers would have been a headache accompanied by a large rejection fee.
AP reveals the the onyx dial was developed by Someco, a Swiss dial and hand specialist proven in 1966. Centered in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the organization now has above 100 staff members.
Commencing with a solitary block of onyx, the stonemason divides the block into slim slices that sort dial blanks. Just about every is then reduce to create the aperture for the tourbillon before becoming floor and lapped to obtain a smooth, shiny surface. At last, the stone disc is secured to a brass dial plate with adhesive and then mounted onto the movement.
Since the hour and minute markers have been taken off, the domed and lacquered chapter ring gets more noticeable. It is a very good match for the black dial, with the glossy, rounded surface of the chapter ring supplying the experience a lot more depth and an upscale sense.
Notably, the situation has a large distinction appearance thanks to its twin elements, which makes it possible for the complicated geometry and finishing to turn into a lot more obvious.
The ceramic case band, for occasion, has been precisely milled to form an octagon and then hand concluded with possibly brushing or mirror sprucing. Though the ceramic case center is a 1st for the Code 11.59, it will definitely be identified in foreseeable future launches just simply because it looks very good.
Inside is the brand’s cal. 2950, a lately-designed automated movement with a 65-hour ability reserve. However its ending is done with combine of handbook and industrial strategies, one detail definitely reveals the brand’s respect for custom: the barrel seen at 12 o’clock capabilities a grand sonnerie-style winding click, a reward that is normally discovered in top-of-the-line putting watches.
Critical specifics and price
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Traveling Tourbillon “Onyx”
Ref. 26396NB.OO.D002KB.01
Diameter: 41 mm
Peak: 11.8 mm
Material: 18k white gold and black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
H2o-resistance: 20 m
Movement: Cal. 2950
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats for every hour (4 Hz)
Ability reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Black rubber strap with white gold folding clasp
Constrained version: No
Availability: At boutiques and AP Properties
Value: CHF146,700
For more, pay a visit to Audemarspiguet.com.
