Daniel Oliver 
English unbiased watchmakers Fears and Christopher Ward have teamed up to build a new take on the jump hour complication with the Alliance 01. A collaborative energy that performs to the strengths of each brand name, the Alliance 01 was manufactured expressly for the Alliance of British Check out and Clock Makers, a trade human body for horologists in the United Kingdom. It combines the minimalist, vintage-impressed aesthetic espoused by Fears with the affordable complications of Christopher Ward.
First feelings
I was intrigued when I acquired Christopher Ward was teaming up with Fears. At to start with look, the Alliance 01 looks like a different version of the Brunswick, a person of Fears’ signature types considering that the brand’s revival six many years back. But it is best explained as Fears observe made up of a Christopher Ward motion. It well combines every single brand’s strengths – Fears’ vintage-motivated styling and Christopher Ward’s accessibly-priced, straightforward problems.
Even with the resemblance to Fears’ other models, the Alliance 01 is appreciably distinctive from just about anything Fears has completed to day. But it even now has the retro elegance regular of Fears, which basically helps make the enjoy glance less difficult, despite the added complication.
Though the style and design is exquisite, the Alliance 01 is chunky, primarily for a check out of this style. With dimensions equivalent to a Rolex Daytona, the case peak of just beneath 13 mm suggest it will sit thickly on the wrist.
If there have been a bone to choose with the enjoy, it would be the absence of Christopher Ward branding on the dial. I would have most popular equally brand names to be found on the dial, like how it was accomplished with the Fears Garrick, for a far more tangible expression of the collaboration.
The Alliance 01 expenses the equal of US$4,000. It is attractively priced relative to Fears’ time-only design with the exact same case that expenses only 10% a lot less, and also as opposed to the broader industry for a rather novel Sellita-powered observe.
The first collaboration
The trade system symbolizing the interests of British check out and clock makers, the Alliance of British Enjoy and Clock Makers seeks to encourage the industry internationally whilst supporting its member manufacturers as a result of teaching and schooling. Launched by Mike France, the main government of Christopher Ward, and independent watchmaker Roger W. Smith in 2020, the Alliance now counts 77 trade members, together with watchmakers primarily based in Ireland.
In accordance to Alliance chairman Mr Smith, the organisation also hopes to serve as a launch pad for collaborations amongst its customers. The Alliance 01 is the very first collaborative to get off the floor, and it is also a fundraising job for the trade overall body.
Minimalist and slightly retro, the dial is in dark burgundy with a silver border for the moment register. It incorporates the jumping hour complication in a mostly classic format. The hour aperture is at 12 o’clock, with the moment hand in an oversized sign-up just beneath. As the minute hand passes the best of the hour, the numeral in the aperture “jumps” to the upcoming hour.
The Alliance 01 works by using the cushion-formed Brunswick circumstance from Fears but enlarged to accommodate the complication. As an alternative of the normal 38 mm, it is 40.5 mm vast and 12.8 mm higher.
The Alliance 01 is powered by the cal. JJ101, which is manufactured up of a proprietary leaping hour module on best of a Sellita SW200. It’s the very same motion that Christopher Ward previously utilised in its C1 Grand Malvern Leaping Hour from 2017. Simply because the Sellita SW200 is in essence a clone of the trusted but extensive-in-tooth ETA 2824, it has a quick power reserve of only 38 hrs.
Critical points and cost
Fears Christopher Ward Alliance 01
Ref. BS240.500
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12.80 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
H2o resistance: 100 m
Movement: Cal. JJ101
Characteristics: Jumping-hour complication with running minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats for each hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Computerized
Energy reserve: 38 several hours
Strap: Calf leather strap
Minimal edition: 50 parts
Availability: Only for users of the Alliance of British Look at and Clock Makers
Price: £3,291.67 excluding taxes
For extra, check out Britishwatchmakers.com.
