The motto of H. Moser & Cie, which would make only about 1500 watches per 12 months, is “Very Exceptional.” And the Streamliner, Moser’s initially chronograph, contains just 100 examples of that generation run—each one particular currently sold.
Behind these types of exclusivity, even so, is a watershed second for the brand name. Its CEO, Edouard Meylan, has taken up the protection of Swiss watchmaking mainly because, he figured, somebody experienced to. And from a watchmaker as audacious, cult-like, and technically remarkable as Moser, the to start with of just about anything is going to make an effects.
It took Moser five decades to establish the Streamliner. At 42.3mm in diameter, it is a hefty boy, nevertheless the cushion scenario wears easily, with intricate steel-shaping on the two sides. 4 uncovered screws on the again incorporate a rugged dimension to the caseback, which exposes the automatic chronograph movement that does not glimpse at all like an automatic and is perhaps the most state-of-the-art in creation now. (Much more on that later on.) This situation is attached to a wonderfully completed bracelet which is sectored like a lobster’s tail, very at ease and variety-fitting even to my (and Meylan’s) small wrists. Some may possibly say it resembles the most forgettable, mired in ‘90s-excess patterns that have not withstood the exam of time: resembling the Ikepod, Meylan’s favored, or the Ebel Sport Common, two watches you have in all probability just experienced to Google.
But the design and style works—because it hides its revelations effectively. Right here is a chronograph that doesn’t resemble a chronograph at all: other than checkered-flag markings, and the a little superfluous tachymeter bezel, there is nothing at all that denotes timing function. No sub-dials, no modest-seconds, very little in the way of the brushed semi-matte seem, which turns from gray to black to brown underneath the light. “I like the strategy that it is not a enjoy that has a chronograph functionality,” reported Meylan, “but it’s a chronograph that gives the time.” It can make its existence felt with its mighty heft, like a knight’s sword, reminding you of some fundamental destiny you must fulfill. It imbues a emotion of energy to its wearer, absurd and significant all at as soon as.
That aforementioned motion hails from Agephor—another impartial Swiss brand name, launched by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, performing deep in the shadows of the Swiss watchmaking empire. The HMC 902 movement is derived from Agephor’s signature AgenGraphe movement, which beforehand appeared in the Fabergé Visionnaire and the Singer Observe 1, so Moser is in rarefied business. When Meylan identified the AgenGraphe two decades ago, he fell in love: “Wow, this is the aspiration movement,” he instructed View Journal. “This is what I could devote tens of millions of decades on creating, and this watchmaker—independent as well—has done it. I think this is the finest chronograph in the environment.”
In this article, Moser upgraded it to a flyback chronograph. The dual slender palms on the dial—the seconds hand tipped in red—tick the seconds and minutes with precision, and they have a nice little flicker when the flyback action is reset. All of the palms are on a central axis, and its rotor lies towards the dial. The chronograph functions are integrated neatly into the central plate, at the similar amount as the escapement and balance, which will make for a large amount of technological perform, as very well as a slew of tiny elements.
“It’s a really elaborate check out, with a ton of particulars, features,” explained Meylan. “We require individuals to fully grasp it.”
Is this the age of the athletics watch? Nicely, this appears to be the year where every single watchmaker rolled out an built-in-bracelet sporting activities watch that can go from yacht to cocktail bar, so to speak. Along with the Moser, two far more uncommon athletics watches debuted this yr. “Time for sports!” Nomos says in a cheery push launch, denoting the Tangente Activity and Club Activity, although Hublot’s 1st-at any time Huge Bang with an built-in bracelet is called, appropriately, the Integral.
Equally of these two providers took various techniques. Nomos has taken their popular Tangente and Club models—both 42mm in diameter, equally with the watchmaker’s DUW 6101 in-dwelling motion, and both with minimalist numbering and smaller-seconds subdials—and added a solid-backlink stainless-metal bracelet with a matte finish and rectangular backlinks. The separately delineated designs of these hyperlinks are reminiscent of the Streamliner, whose lines also operate horizontally to the duration of its bracelet. Meanwhile, Hublot, celebrating the 15th anniversary of the Huge Bang, opted for an solely new design to include its built-in bracelet. The Large Bang Integral, offered in 3 versions, options a handsome segmented bracelet with the same depth and distinction as the sides of the case—which is echoed in the meticulously machined, with both equally brushed and polished sides, of the Streamliner.
Nomo’s integration is incredibly straightforward and deceptively simple, holding in move with the brand’s aesthetic. Hublot, in the meantime, reshaped the circumstance and pushers of the Significant Bang to in shape its intricate, 3-dimensional bracelet. And, of class, Moser experienced to introduce a new view.
The Streamliner is the first of a series, stated Meylan. “There will be extra chronographs, additional complications. It is the starting of a new line. It was so vital to use these an wonderful motion to make a statement.”
This will be a departure from Moser’s dress lineup, a spectacular expansion of its lineup, and distinctive from its exceptional in-home movements. There is a excellent foundation, thankfully. Moser’s handsome, profoundly understated lineup—with their astonishing in-dwelling actions and their colourful, gradient-like fumé dials, minimally embellished, which has carved out its area of interest amid a motley crew of understated innovators and haute-horology independents. Just 55 men and women get the job done in its atelier there is place for experimentation. For what it is really worth, 95 percent of its watches get bought internationally. “We’re either the greatest impartial or the smallest of the recognized makes,” claimed Meylan. “I like the latter.”