What They Are & How To Wear Them

Seal Your Exceptional Style with a Signet Ring

For thousands of years, men of influence have been donning a wearable form of identification and communication known as the signet ring. Today, this remarkable ring is a common style accessory that can be worn by any gentleman. How did this change take place? And how can you wear a signet ring as part of Classic Style today? That is exactly what this guide will teach you.

What is a Signet Ring?

Understanding Exactly What a Signet Ring Is

Have you ever seen someone wearing a ring with a flat face and fancy engraving on it of something like a heraldic beast, a family coat of arms, or a similar symbol? If you have, then you have already seen a signet ring.

Signet Rings: A Wearable Signature

Signet rings have been a practical part of men’s fashion for thousands of years. For wealthy and important men, a signet ring was a powerful tool akin to a signature: the engravings on the ring were unique to the man who wore it, and if he used the face of the ring like a seal, he could stamp his symbol into ink, wax, clay, or similar surfaces, and in doing so leave a mark similar to the way that we sign documents today.

A signet ring differs from other rings because of its engraved or raised symbol, series of words or letters, or image on the top half of the ring that was representative of its wearer in some way. It could be a name, initials, job title, rank, organization, or family crest.

In the Modern Age, Signet Rings Are a Classic Style Icon

Changes in how documents and correspondence are verified and safeguarded mean that signet rings are no longer needed as practical tools to verify or secure documents. The signet ring, however, remains one of the most common types of rings in menswear, thanks in no small part to its unique and fascinating history.

The History of Signet Rings

The Origins of Signet Rings: Seals as Signatures

Historically, signet rings played a significant role in business and politics. Functioning as a seal, a gentleman would use his ring featuring his unique family crest, emblem, or monogram to stamp important documents. By dipping the ring into hot wax or soft clay, the ring left a distinct seal that was considered, at the time, to be more official than that of a signature, and this impression helped to solidify the authenticity of the sealed document. For this reason, signet rings are sometimes referred to as seal rings.

Signet Rings as Security Devices

The wax or clay into which the impression was made was often placed in such a way as to effectively seal the documents or items on which they were impressed: for instance, over the flaps of a letter. If someone tampered with the item, they would have to literally break the seal, and because they did not have access to the original ring used to seal the item with an impression, they could not replicate the original seal and, therefore, could not hide the fact that the item had been opened.

In this way, signet rings and seals could be used almost like a security device, making it clear whether or not someone had tampered with an item or read a private letter. This functionality was one of the reasons signet rings were so valuable and of such monumental importance.

Why do some signet rings appear

Backward?

Because signet rings were intended to leave an impression on a different surface, historical signet rings were made with reversed faces. In this way, the impression left behind was “correctly” oriented for the benefit of anyone viewing it. Because signet rings are no longer used primarily for sealing documents, modern signet rings may or may not be reversed. Historically accurate rings with a mirrored face tend to be fairly expensive because they are difficult to make and relatively rare.

Signet Rings in the Ancient World

Sealing Cylinders and the Evolution of the Signet Ring

The origins of the signet ring can be traced back to around 3500 BC and the Mesopotamian civilization. To seal and authenticate documents, Mesopotamians would use a rolling seal, similar to a stamp. This cylindrical device was rolled across wet clay, leaving a distinct impression on it. Clay seals marked in this way were used to seal a variety of important items, including documents and packages for security and identification, as well as jars and containers to prevent tampering.

The Seal Becomes a Ring

Because cylindrical seals were relatively difficult to carry around, the Mesopotamians made them more portable by placing the sealing elements onto rings. Not only were rings easier to carry around, allowing the seal to be literally on hand when needed, but they were also more secure: a ring could be worn on one’s person at all times to reduce the likelihood of misplacing the valuable seal or having it stolen.

Signet Rings of the Ancient World

Many great ancient civilizations employed signet rings in one form or another. In Ancient Egypt, pharaohs, religious leaders, and nobles would wear rings made of stone or a unique glazed pottery type called faience. The rings were flat on the outside and ornately decorated with hieroglyphics used to denote their owner.

During the Early Minoan Age, from roughly 2900 to 2100 BC, signet rings were commonly chiseled out of stone or ivory. Within a few centuries, signet rings were made out of metal and closely resembled modern signet rings.

Signet rings appear in the Bible and Torah, most prominently in the Book of Daniel, which is set around the 6th century BC. When King Darius orders that Daniel be thrown into a den of lions, a stone was placed over the den, and it was marked with a seal from the signet ring of Darius and his nobles. Sealing the stone in this way both illustrated that Daniel’s punishment was done under the king’s authority and could indicate whether or not anyone had broken the seal to move the stone.

Signet Rings Become an Art Form

During the Hellenistic Period in Greece and the Early Roman Republic, signet rings continued to be used as official seals, but they also began to take on a more decorative role, with an increasing emphasis on crafting rings that were beautiful to behold and helped to illustrate the wealth and power of their owner.

These signet rings had additional decoration, in the form of gemstones or scrollwork, that appeared on the rings in addition to the faces of the actual seal. While still functional, these signet rings were increasingly viewed as luxury items. In fact, the 1st century BC monarch Mithradates VI of Pontus was an avid collector of signet rings.

The origins of the word

Signet

The word “signet” in “signet ring” comes from the Latin word signum, which means “an identifying sign or mark” and is the origin of the English word “signify.” The suffix “et,” in this case, functions as a diminutive modifier that means “little.” A signet, therefore, is a “little symbol,” and illustrates the fact that the signet ring bears on its face a miniature version of the wearer’s symbol, or seal.

Signets Rings in the Medieval World

The Golden Age of the Functional Signet Ring

During the Middle Ages, as societies began to increasingly rely on the written word in the form of letters, decrees, patents, deeds, and histories, signet rings were an essential tool for determining what orders, transactions, and correspondence were genuine and authentic.

These signet rings were often decorated with the coat of arms of the wearer’s family, and were often extremely detailed: precise and fine detailing made it more difficult to make a forged copy of a signet ring, and the presence of little or obscure details could be used to verify the authenticity of a seal.

Most members of the nobility, clergy, and military wore some kind of signet ring and used it to sign and seal anything that required security or authentication. In fact, the signet ring was widely considered the only authentic way to sign without concern of forgery or tampering. Even as more nobles learned to read and write, the signet ring remained the preferred method to validate a document and not a signature.

In fact, signet rings were so important and so associated with the legitimate authority of their owners that they were often destroyed upon the death of their owners. Signet rings were not often passed down through the family during this period because it was important that each family member have his or her own signet ring. Likewise, the rings could not be kept after the death of the wearer because then they might be used to forge documents.

Did this signet ring belong to

Shakespeare?

On a spring day in 1810, a gold signet ring bearing the initials WS was found in a field in Stratford-Upon-Avon, a town in England. Stratford-Upon-Avon is famously the birthplace of celebrated English poet William Shakespeare, leading some to conclude that this beautiful gold ring once belonged to the Bard himself.

Evolving Impressions: From Relief to Counter-Relief

The earliest examples of signet rings were carved in relief, meaning that the impressed images were raised up relative to the “background” of the ring’s face. This was done because early signet rings were pressed into harder substances like clay, and a raised stamp was needed to leave a strong impression. This also meant that the rings themselves had to be very durable and resistant to damage, as they were constantly jammed into the matrix for sealing.

During the Roman Period, bitumen, a sticky, black, highly viscous material derived from petroleum that is similar to tar, was increasingly used for seals because it was softer and more malleable. Eventually, sealing wax, an organic compound derived primarily from the wax in the honeycombs of bees, became the preferred seal material.

Sealing wax was so soft that it was no longer necessary to have a raised impression on the sealing face of the signet ring. Therefore, it became increasingly popular for signet rings to be cast in counter-relief, or intaglio, in which the symbol was recessed into the face of the ring. When the ring was pressed into the soft wax, the wax filled into the vacuum of the casting and left a raised imprint in the wax itself.

Signet Rings in the Modern Era

The Changing Role of Signet Rings

During the 17th and 18th centuries, signet rings were slowly being replaced by signatures as the preferred method for verifying and authenticating documents. Signet rings remained important symbols of authority, however, and correspondence continued to be sealed with wax as a safeguard against tampering.

With their functional purpose decreasing somewhat, signet rings soon became more heavily decorated and bejeweled than ever before. Valuable and expensive signet rings were passed down through families as heirlooms, and some signet rings became so heavy and ornate that they were worn on chains or fobs rather than on the fingers.

Victorian Signet Ring Customs

Many customs and designs that we associate with signet rings today were developed during the Victorian Era. At this time, most signet rings were made from precious metals like gold or silver, with faces in either the ring’s metal or carved from precious or semi-precious stones like rubies, bloodstone, or carnelian, that were fastened to the ring.

Signet rings from this period would still feature coats of arms or heraldic animals, although initials or monograms were also becoming increasingly popular.

Prior to this era, because of their size, signet rings were often worn on the index or middle finger. By the 19th century, however, signet rings were usually worn on the pinky finger of the left hand in England and the ring finger of the left hand in North America and Germany: on the rest of the Continent, traditions varied regionally, although either pinky finger was a popular option.

Signet Rings in the 20th Century

During the 20th century, signet rings remained a popular menswear accessory that was commonly worn by gentlemen in the upper classes but also by upwardly-mobile men who wanted to fit in with high society.

Along with wedding rings, signet rings were one of the most popular and easiest-to-wear rings for men to employ, and so they were a common sight through the Golden Age of Menswear. These rings were usually worn on the pinky or ring finger and were often intended to be luxury items made from gold, silver, or platinum with the addition of gemstones and fine detailing.

The Signet Ring Today

Signet Rings Still Have a Place in Contemporary Menswear

In the 21st century, signet rings are only used to seal documents as a fun hobby, and very few people outside of select groups of nobles or royals employ them as symbols of aristocratic power or authority. They remain, however, a versatile and stylish option for men interested in wearing a greater variety of rings.

Vintage Flair and Family History

Many people who wear signet rings today like them because they have a historical, traditional aesthetic that is evocative of lordly living, stately manners, and a more refined past. These gentlemen admire the history behind the signet ring, and enjoy vicariously participating in it by wearing this historical ring type.

Of course, some families do have signet rings that genuinely represent their families, as these rings are often passed down through the dynastic line as a treasured heirloom that represents the lineage of the family and all that its many members have achieved.

Institutions, Clubs, or Associations

Some clubs, corporations, and institutions give signet or seal rings as gifts upon a certain length of service, a graduation, or a commendation. This not only honors the wearer, it also advertises the institution to others. Many military men will also wear signet rings that reflect their rank or showcase the branch they served with, similar to a class or service ring.

Personal Style Choice

For many other people, however, a signet ring is simply a unique ring choice that has lots of personality and offers opportunities for unexpected decoration or visual interest. Relatively few contemporary rings have noticeable symbols or images displayed on them, so signet rings are a great way to inject an artistic element into one’s outfit, regardless of the history of the symbols or what they meant historically.

However you choose to wear your signet ring, this unique article can be a great addition to your wardrobe and will always add charm and panache to any Classic outfit.

Who Can Wear Signet Rings? You Can!

Signet Rings Have Become a Versatile Jewelry Option for All Men

Although originally associated with individual families, governments, or institutions, today, signet rings of all kinds can be worn by anyone. You do not have to be a nobleman yourself or a member of a particular family to wear a signet ring that depicts a particular crest or coat of arms.

If you like the design of the British royal coat of arms, you should feel free to wear it, even if you are not a Windsor yourself. Likewise, if you see a signet ring with a lion or other animal that you enjoy on it, feel free to wear the ring simply because you like the design.

What if I don’t have a family

Coat of Arms?

While some families do have an official coat of arms, you do not need to be descended from nobility to enjoy one today. It is perfectly acceptable for you to wear a historical coat of arms on your signet ring if you like the design. Doing so does not mean that you are posing as a member of that family, it only means that you admire the stylistic design of their crest. If desired, you can even design your own family crest! After all, even the oldest and noblest of families had to start somewhere.

The Benefits of Wearing a Signet Ring

• It is a anique menswear accessory that adds visual interest to your hands, one of the most active parts of your body.
• It is a great conversation starter and a way to subtly tell others about your personality and interests.
• It is a simple and easy way to expand your usage of jewelry in a classic, traditional way.
• It is, along with a wedding or class ring, one of the most common rings in menswear.
• It can Expand pairing opportunities with other metallic items like cufflinks or collar jewelry.

How to Wear a Signet Ring

Although Conventions Exist, the Final Choice is Yours

Because signet rings have been worn for millennia and were such important aspects of multiple societies’ cultures and histories, many conventions, guidelines, and traditions have arisen about how they should be worn. Ultimately, however, how you choose to wear your signet ring is your choice. We provide the following information only so that you can be informed as you make your decision.

Traditional Fingers for the Wearing of Signet Rings

Historically, signet rings were usually worn on the index or middle finger because the seals on the faces of the rings were extremely large. During the Modern Era, signet rings shrank somewhat in size and were often worn on the ring fingers or the pinky fingers, with variable traditions based on geographic location.

How to Wear Multiple Rings

Along with a signet ring, you may find yourself wearing a wedding ring, a class ring, and perhaps even more rings. For a Classic look, you should consider wearing these rings in a balanced way that visually distributes them across your hands.

For instance, rather than wearing rings on your pinky, ring, and index finger of your left hand, consider moving one or two rings to your right hand. Note also that a wristwatch, especially one with a metal bracelet, can visually balance out one or two rings. Therefore, a wristwatch on your left hand could be nicely balanced by a ring on the index finger and pinky finger of your right hand.

Traditionally, a gentleman would wear one ring on each hand, such as a wedding ring and a signet ring. If desired, he could add a third ring, wearing one ring on the arm that also wore his wristwatch and wearing two rings on the other hand. This arrangement encourages balance and is very visually appealing, ensuring that your hand jewelry does not appear cluttered.

Ring Rules are more like

Guidelines

Remember that you can wear any ring on any finger that you want, especially if you prefer breaking the mold or being more individualistic. The famous British prime minister Winston Churchill wore his signet ring on the ring finger of his ring hand, even though the English tradition called for wearing it on his pinky. Men have worn signet rings on every finger throughout history, so whichever way you choose to do it is correct.

Contemporary Signet Ring Design

Although no longer used primarily to seal documents, the contemporary signet ring still closely resembles its historical ancestor. On the band, the signet ring features a flat face on which the seal would traditionally appear: nowadays, it is not uncommon to find signet rings with unadorned faces that lack any kind of seal.

The face can be made from the same metal as the ring, a different metal from the ring, or with an inset, usually a precious or semi-precious stone. As previously mentioned, this face can be decorated or plain.

Common Signet Ring Materials

Metals

Signet rings can be made in any material from which rings can be made, although traditionally, they were crafted from precious or semi-precious metals like gold or silver.

Gold

Gold signet rings are the most typical. Your primary choices will be between gold purity and gold luster. The traditional lusters are white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold, and ultimately, this choice is a purely aesthetic one.

Gold purity refers to the relative proportion of gold in the alloy used to make the ring. This system is referred to as karats, with 24 karats representing effectively pure gold. Because gold is extremely soft, a true 24-karat ring would easily warp during regular wear, and so an alloy is often preferred.

The common karats for rings are 10 karats, 14 karats, or 18 karats. Rings with higher karats often have a more pleasing, refined appearance in which the unique characteristics of the gold luster are especially prominent, but they also tend to be more expensive and easier to scratch or bend.

Rings with lower carats are cheaper and more durable, but they also tend to have a more dull appearance and tarnish more quickly.

Silver

While silver lacks the luster variations of gold, it does have a purity scale, although it is not ranked according to karats. Instead, silver is rated according to fineness, with a maximum fineness of 999, or 99.9% silver. Most jewelry-grade silver will have a fineness of at least 925.

Consider the benefits of

Silver Plating

Silver tarnishes extremely easily, and so it is increasingly common to find silver jewelry like rings plated with another metal, such as palladium or platinum. This process reduces the need to constantly clean and polish silver without adversely affecting its unique ethereal shine or luster. In many cases, silver-plated jewelry is a hallmark of quality craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Stones

If a signet ring does not have a metallic face, it will usually have a face made from a precious or semi-precious stone. This choice is essentially an aesthetic one, and the common options include black onyx, blue lapis lazuli, green and red heliotrope, and red carnelian.

Common Signet Ring Styles

Face Shape

The most prominent feature of a signet ring will be its face shape. Historically, the following six face shapes were employed and have remained popular up to the present day:

• Straight Oval: The most popular signet ring shape, partly because it is easy for the engraver to work.
• Bulbous Oval: A heavier, more distinctive-looking oval that is nearly round.
• Round: A simple, elegant shape that can appear both modern and antique.
• Cushion: Favored during the Victorian Era, this shape is the second-most common, after the Straight Oval.
• Oxford: This heavy, blocky shape resembles a solid square or rectangle with rounded corners. 
• Octagon: A very modern style not often seen on vintage rings.

Engravings on the Face

Signet rings can have any kind of design on their face, including no design whatsoever, and traditionally, these designs would be rendered on the face in one of two ways.

Setting Reverse

If you have a stone set into the face of your signet ring, the area where the stone meets the band can either be open or closed. If open, you are able to see the underside of the stone, but the resulting cavity tends to collect detritus and is very difficult to clean.

If closed, you cannot see the bottom of the stone, and the additional metal and workmanship will inflate the cost, but the final lines of the ring tend to be more elegant, and it will be easier to keep the ring clean.

Should you consider

Laser-Engraving?

In recent years, technological advancements have allowed for laser-engraved signet rings. The clean, hard, thin lines of laser-engraving, however, are easily recognizable as not having been done by hand and therefore lack the historic charm of by-hand workmanship. Keep this fact in mind, as much of the appeal of the signet ring is its historical allure.

Additional Details

As with any ring, it is possible to have additional decorative work and detailing added to a signet ring beyond the seal on the face. This decoration can include scrollwork on the shoulders, rippling on the band, and the additional setting of gemstones.

Historically, signet rings were rarely heavily ornamented, as the seal on the face of the ring was intended to be the center of attention. Therefore, if you want to wear a signet ring with traditional appeal, skip showy details like blingy diamonds or heavy scrollwork.

Where to Buy a Signet Ring

Retail

As signet rings have increased in popularity in recent years, many jewelers offer premade signet rings in a variety of classic and modern styles. These rings often feature generic heraldic emblems, such as stags, lions, and unicorns, or famous coats of arms, such as the royal French fleur-de-lis, the Three Crowns of Munster, or an imperial or republican eagle.

Second-Hand

Having been worn by men for centuries, it makes sense that signet rings are one of the most common ring types found in vintage and second-hand shops today. While it may take some hard work and persistent searching, it is possible to find some real treasures on the used ring market, whether shopping online or in a brick-and-mortar store.

Custom

Especially if you are interested in having a personally-designed symbol or crest on the face of your signet ring, a custom ring might be the perfect option for you. Be aware that you will require the services of a reputable custom jeweler, and that you will be paying for both the price of his craftsmanship and the price of the materials. Depending on materials and design, expect to pay $2000 to $5000, or more, for a custom signet ring.

Conclusion

Whether you wear it as a status symbol, for authentication, or simply because it was handed down to you, a signet ring is a beautiful mark of an elegant gentleman that has truly stood the test of time. We hope that you have enjoyed this short primer on signet rings and that you now know enough to consider wearing this timeless menswear accessory yourself.

If you own a signet ring, tell us about it in the comments below!

Outfit Rundown

In today’s outfit, Raphael is wearing a charcoal-brown three-piece suit with a fine red stripe. The suit is single-breasted with peaked lapels and the waistcoat is double-breasted. His shirt is a light green with a white winchester collar and gold monkey’s fist cufflinks from Fort Belvedere. Ironically, Raphael is not wearing a signet ring, but he is wearing a gold pinky ring that sets off his cufflink and features a domed green tourmaline.

Raphael’s tie features bottle green and pearl grey houndstooth and is made from an elegantly textured bourette silk. To harmonize with the green elements in this ensemble, Raphael is wearing over-the-calf mid-brown and green shadow-striped socks. His shoes are medium-brown leather oxfords with brogue detailing and captoe and mid-brown dress shoe laces.